Marc's Whereabouts

Monday, June 21, 2004

Well, it's been a while, I know.

I'm still in france, still typing on a crazy keyboard.

I tried to hitch my way out of Calais, but it seems that Calais is one of those hitching black holes - a conclusion I arrived at after several hours of waiting by the rode, thumb in the air. My two Lithuanian counterparts agreed, as they had been there for several days, trying to hitch to England. Finally we all packed up and headed into town. We hung out all evening, avoiding the cafés where the surly barmen would bark "consommez!" at you if you dared to enter their establishment with a light wallet, wandering the streets of what was turning out to be a nasty town. My two Lithuanian companions, only one of whom spoke any english at all, had hitched all the way out from Lithuania, but were now stuck in Calais with 14 euros between them. Finally, with the night wearing out, and having found no better way for any of us to get out of Calais, I payed their tickets across the channel. I parted ways with them late that night, and I assume they're in England by now. But what about me? The next day, I decided to take a train out of Calais. On the way to the station I met a french man who sympathized with my plight in Calais, and told me that I was in a very bourgeois town, and brought me to a beautiful statue by Rodin, depicting the "Bourgeois de Calais", that drew tourists from all over Europe. We drank some french beer in the nearby café, which a whole host of local characters called their second home. A heated argument broke out over Jules Vernes, and by what means his protagonist made the Tour du Monde en 80 jours, but I left the colorful establishment, thanking the man for the tour of the city and the free beer, and made my way to the train station I had been originally aiming for. I found a cheap train out to Lille, and left Calais gratefully behind me.

On the train I met some french students who assured me that Calais was the exception rather than the rule when it comes to french hospitality. They gave me a map of Lille and the location of an excellent youth hostel in town. When I stepped off the train I found a beautiful city all around me: architecture, culture, beauty and action - this town clearly had it all. Apparently, Lille is the cultural centre of Europe for 2004. It seemed to live up to its reputation so far, and my eyes feasted on the sights and sounds of Lille as I walked its streets, following my map to the spot that my french travelling companions had indicated. I arrived, finally, and inquired immediately if they had a work-stay program, so that I could have my room and board for free. What luck! I found myself immediately hired, and would not have to worry any longer about where I was going to stay. Which left me free to explore Lille! And my explorations brought me to delight after delight for all five of my senses: concerts in the park; outdoor markets with marvels of scent and taste, where the food cost nearly nothing; great green parks to lie in; free museums displaying the most wondrous and odd exhibits; oh, and the marvellous buildings, resonating with history, to which my humble descriptions could never do justice! I've met good people here, too, whom I will describe once I get to know them better.

But I'm safe and sound and happy, here, in case any one was wondering. But today is La fête de la Musique, here, so Il faut en profiter! Bye!